Where Fog, Forest, and Faith Meet: A Stay at Kannagara in Iiji

A Sanctuary Hidden in the Fog

Kannagara is a traditional Japanese house that belonged to and was the residence of a family of Shinto priests for generations before being converted into a guesthouse. However, it is still owned by the same family today.

The guesthouse sits in the mountainous community of Iiji, a short drive away from Ena City, in a secluded area off the main road and surrounded by rice fields. The house consists of three bedrooms connected by galleries, as well as two common rooms—one in the Western style and another in the Japanese style. It also features a kitchen and a bathroom. From its windows, you can see wonderful views of mountains and pine forests.

Since it was mid-June, the early summer moisture filled the air. At the time we arrived, the clouds lay low over the mountains, and everything was covered with fog. At a time like this, no scenery stays the same for long, as the clouds are always moving; something visible just minutes ago could be hidden moments later. We could sense the clouds passing over us, surrounding us with dense, humid air.

Life at the Heart of the Village

We left our luggage in the bedroom and went out again to pay a visit to Iiji Shoten. Iiji Shoten is a local community shop—the only shop in Iiji and its immediate surroundings. It serves as an important hub for the community, as well as a vital connection to local infrastructure and logistics.

After returning, we spent the rest of the afternoon talking with the host’s family and a few other local residents before starting the main activity planned for the day.

Wrapping Tradition: The Art of Hoba-zushi

Hoba-zushi is a regional specialty of Gifu made exclusively in the summer. It consists of rice with an assortment of toppings—including various types of fish, omelet, mushrooms, vegetables, and pickles—wrapped in a leaf from the magnolia tree. After wrapping everything and securing it with a thin string or a leaf stem punctured through multiple layers, it is placed under a weight for some time. This process infuses the dish with a delicate sweet-and-sour flavor while allowing the rice to absorb the subtle aroma of the leaf and toppings. It is a true symbol of the region, and the locals are very proud of it.

The experience started with our host demonstrating how Hoba-zushi should be assembled: the exact proportions of toppings to add, and how to properly cut and wrap the leaf. We spent the next hour around the table talking, assembling Hoba-zushi, and laughing over our small mistakes along the way. It turned out to be a incredibly fun and memorable experience.

Our evening continued with dinner, where we sampled more homemade Japanese cuisine. We made takoyaki using a portable grill right at the table and tried a variety of local side dishes. To top it all off, we finally got to taste the Hoba-zushi we had prepared earlier.

As evening turned to night, we finished our dinner, took a bath, wished our hosts a good night, and retired to sleep. Soft futons with plush blankets were prepared in one of the Japanese-style bedrooms. We fell asleep to the soothing sounds of frogs chirping around the house.

Morning Prayers and the Silence of Mount Ontake

We woke up the following morning to sunlight streaming through the semi-transparent paper screens and the sound of birds singing in the nearby forest. Another meaningful experience awaited us: morning prayer and meditation hosted by our owners.

Since the house was once the residence of Shinto priests, it features a compact shrine built right in its backyard. The priests who lived here belonged to a Shinto tradition that honors mountain spirits, so the Kannagara shrine is dedicated to the Kami (spiritual beings that reside in the natural world) of nearby Mount Ontake.

We took our places in front of the altar, flanked by lit candles, and listened quietly to the morning prayer. We then moved into the second room of the shrine to begin our meditation. Though scheduled for fifteen minutes, time felt completely suspended inside that room. The air was filled with the gentle scent of incense and the songs of wild birds ringing in unison with the deep, resonant vibrations of the singing bowl.

A Farewell Above the Clouds

After meditation, we prepared a light breakfast using fresh ingredients provided by our hosts. We spoke with the owners one last time while enjoying a cup of coffee on the terrace, overlooking the mist-covered mountains. They were genuinely curious to hear about our thoughts and experiences during our stay.

Finally, we packed our bags, checked out, and bade farewell to this beautiful sanctuary to continue our exploration of the Japanese countryside.